Wednesday, 24 March 2010 - womenswear

The new vintage for Trussardi 1911

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Elegance is expressed with an oxymoron: new vintage. Carefully balancing volumes and materials, it takes the sartorial expertise, shapes, and patterns of the past and renews them to create an absolutely contemporary look. Milan Vukmirovic achieved this perfect magic formula in the new Trussardi 1911 Fall/Winter 2010-2011 Women’s Collection inspired by French chic of the early seventies.
Silhouettes bring to mind the black & white photos of Jeanloup Sieff and David Bailey and icons of style such as Romy Schneider, Jane Birkin and Catherine Deneuve. Classic pieces are updated. Thanks to the maison’s nearly century of expertise, everything is mixed, layered, and reinvented, inspired by a passion for Prince of Wales and Pied-de-Poule prints.
These two patterns dominate cropped vis-à-vis jackets in boucle wool and Lurex or in tweed. They also line leather, have denim inserts, or are decorated with contrasting fringed wool trim that is even woven through chain shoulder straps on handbags with the same pattern.
Parisian chic inflections emerge in black or white A-line matelassé leather jackets with elbow- ength sleeves. Exquisite vertical pleating culminating in ruche trim adorns calf leather jackets nipped at the waist and bold ankle boots. Peeking from beneath the jackets are silk blouses in tasteful shades of cream, warm gray, beige, and tan. These same colors – in addition to black, blue, and vibrant splashes of orange and ruby – flow throughout the DNA of the collection.
Outerwear ranges from long casual fur or quilted and layered vests to the robe-like wrap coat with a wide belt and lapels and A-line coats with or without a collar. The classic pants suit with slightly flared bell-bottom trousers is pure nostalgia and comes in Pied-de-Poule, Prince of Wales check, dotted Lurex, or pinstripes. The collection also features Bermuda shorts in wool, Lurex, or quilted fabric worn with matching jackets. Skirts with above-the-knee hems are feminine and tasteful. Yesterday’s femininity gets bolder if it meets up with stretch leather leggings. Bustier dresses made of a blend of different fabrics that sensuously accent the décolleté are the height of poetic femininity.
Milan Vukmirovic brings back the French tradition of the robe-manteau, the coat dress, that now comes in wool and Lurex and features a zipper leitmotif that reveals unique necklines and slits. The coat dress even comes in a fitted light sheepskin version with a sexy center zipper that also triumphs on booties and bags.
Trussardi 1911’s extraordinary skill and contemporary taste have created unique accessories: calf leather clutches shaped like a checkerboard and with Retro metal clasps, bags made of laser-cut leather or printed with a camouflage animal print, and clutches that combine leather and houndstooth check or come in fringed wool or matelassé denim.
Shoes have a seventies flavor with two-tone wedge heels and open toes. Booties have bouclé wool appliqués and are decorated with metal chains woven with fabric or fur. Boots, pumps, and low boots come in matelassé material, and ankle boots have a bustier-like frontlet. The scarf – the quintessential tasteful accessory – is back, but in an updated version with prints that echo the main motifs of the suits and bags in the Trussardi 1911 collection: the final touch for new vintage
elegance.

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