Monday, 12 July 2010 - --
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“Couture is like a laboratory and a breeding ground of ideas that fuel prêt-à-porter. It is the means
that enables the designer to take several concepts to extremes, concepts that will subsequently be
translated in a simpler manner, essential for a prêt-a-porter collection”
The concept that identifies the Corrado De Biase couture collection, developed since November
2009, is SEE THROUGH.
“There is a voyeuristic almost surgical component in the design of a collection aimed at sectioning the garment in order to break it down, dismember it and recompose it in the most painstaking detail, choosing not to respect, but rather, “violate” the constitutional canons inherent in the construction of a arment”.
This is the concept expressed through the 20 garments of the collections, all perforated and cut in a seemingly provocative and unusual manner based, however, on a conscious desire and obsessive research aimed not only at uncovering but also, simultaneously, of challenging the composition of the garment itself, depriving it not only of several fundamental elements but also of its original structure, almost as if the collection had been conceived by two people, a surgeon and a serial killer rather than a designer.
Another inspirational element is the genius of Pierre Cardin, namely, minimalism, and the perfection of the cut of the garments, geometric research pushed to the limit, the use of stiff materials combined with the lightness of couture materials and the almost “engineered”, severe cut of the lines.
Felt, organza and organdis “co-exist” in the collection. Felt, stiff, poor, though sublime on account of its compact aspect and earthy on account of its architectural versatility. Organza and orgàndis, classic, almost forgotten materials, are forced into a rigidity for which they are not normally destined in order to construct the armour and paniers of a “surgeon-like warrior” far removed from any historic reference. The garments are constructed around the working techniques dear to accessories and footwear, techniques that are not only improbable but which almost give the impression of being intruders in the world of couture and prêt-a-porter. A silent tribute to the designer’s eight-year career in the world of footwear. Outfits resembling hyper-accessories rather than simple couture garments.
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