“I wanted to be an architect; but as a couturier I am obliged to follow the laws and principles of architecture” explained Christian Dior in 1956, at a conference held at the Université de la Sorbonne in Paris. From his first show, he imbued his creations with their architectural elegance and also defined a style and a spirit. “A dress is a piece of architecture” Christian Dior used to say.
A peplum, a pleat or a drape defy gravity; the line and balance of a silhouette come from a precise handling of fabric, constructed stitch by stitch, by sculpting the fabric to shape the curves of a woman’s body.
In tribute to this unique creative vision, two years ago Victoire de Castellane designed the Archi Dior fine jewellery collection, then last year a jewellery collection in which each piece took the name of a couture line or an iconic dress, adapting a fabric’s special way of moving to the language of stones and precious metals.
This year, the Archi Dior jewellery collection welcomes wight pieces inspired by the Cocotte houdstooth dress from the spring-summer 1948 collection with its volume swept to the back, as well as the Milieu du Siècle line from the autumn-winter 1949-50 presentation based on the internal geomertry of the fabrics.
The silhouette of the Cocotte design thus gave rise to an asymmetric ring and necklace on white gold and diamonds. And the flow of the Milieu du Siècle line’s curves appear in a gold and diamond necklace, in two pairs of white gold and diamond earrings, as well as three rings in white gold and diamonds, and rose gold, with or without diamonds. “I selected the strongest and most interesting movements in order to adapt them in metal. It’s no longer a plated dress, but the idea o a pleat” explains the Creative Director of Dior Joaillerie.