The centre of gravity for trousers and jackets is considerably higher, shoulders are wider, as are waists to a lesser degree, and lapels are more obvious: for AW 2016 the Corneliani man builds his style by looking to the fashion of the 1940s.
He analyses, masters and revitalizes it, interpreting it through the lens of contemporary language, where elegance wavers between two extremes: essential versatility and the supreme quality of the details, an increasing indicator of class and shaper of personality.
This is the framework for a much softer, more rounded, deconstructed, lighter style, fashioned most appealingly from exquisite, enveloping materials.
The retro feel – from crocheted details on the waistcoats to micro-geometric effects borrowed from the archives and herringbones, so subtle they look like pinstripes both micro and macro – reflects 1940s elegance in the shape of caramel, bark brown and tobacco coloured suits and peacock green and lead grey jackets, both single and double breasted. Mid-length cashmere coats are oversized and designed to be tied at the waist; the nylon trench is ultra-lightweight, while stitching and astrakhan touches play down the sporty look of the bomber jacket.
The stiff, textured feel of post-Second-World-War fashion is hinted at subtly in the contours of the designs, which break away from the body to restore a sense of independent strength to fashion, all with a whisper of nostalgia.